To: <alice@chem.ucla.edu>
Subject: Churchll
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 10:30:40 -0500
Hi,
You seem to be the "Keeper of the Keys" as things relate
to Churchill. It is interesting to see where people with the interest
are located. I live in a small village in southeastern New York
State near West Point.
In September 1960, the U.S. Army decided that I could best serve
their interests by sending me to Churchill. I was there for nine
months before moving on to Fairbanks, Alaska. I was part of a
unit that did environmental testing for the Corps of Engineers.
So much for the concept of wintering in the south and summering
in the north. After spending the first month or so feeling very
sorry for myself I began to look around at what might be there.
And what I found made the next eight or months just fly by. The
Eskimo Museum was next to the Catholic church and it seemed to
be an ever-changing exhibit. I think that the museum was more
or less run by the church. I purchased and still treasure a hand
carved ivory cribbage board that was done by lay-brother at the
church.
Saturday was a big day to go into the village from the base. We
would drive the military speed limit (25) and get passed by dogsled
teams. Snowmobiles had not gotten to Churchill yet. We would check
out all the goods at the Bay Company store which didn't seem to
change from one week to the next. John McDougall, manager
of the store, was a very nice guy and was much respected in the
community.
It came out that I was one-half the Jewish population in Churchill.
Father Rene Blair often offered to hold services for me if the
was my desire. He was a truly a unique man and a dear friend of
our unit.
These are just a few of my memories. Churchill will always be
close to my heart and someday I would like to return for a few
days. Not to see the bears. Done that! I would like to re-meet
the people and walk on what I'm sure are no longer familiar streets.
From: "Alice L. Ramirez" <alice@chem.ucla.edu>
Subject: Re: Churchll
1/6/04
Dear Sam,
thank you for your letter. I would like to add it to the Historical Churchill part of my Churchill website. I am curious if you found me from my website or some other source. If you haven't visited my website, let me know and I'll send you the UYRL.
I don't think the Oblates (of St. Mary?) still run the Eskimo Museum. I think it's government-run now but still very much there.
Maybe you can answer a question that loomed during my summer visit. No one to whom I spoke seemed to know. As you drive the little gravel back road that goes from town out to Cape Merry, off to the right-hand side (as you are going TO Cape Merry), inconveniently far from the road (or maybe it's that there is no place to pull over there. Time has passed since 1996 and my memory of details is hazy). There is a boulder apx 5 feet tall. On the boulder is carved a large Mogen David. Since to my knowledge there is no Jewish population in Churchill right now, I found its presence mystifying. Do you know what it is? I can't believe it's a large gravestone for a Jewish soldier who died, because of its isolated and desolate location. (also, wouldn't a serviceman's remains be sent home?) I can't imaging how it got there because to my knowledge there has NEVER been a Jewish population in Churchill.
Churchill IS a magic place, eh? I got thoroughly bitten by the tundra up there. Saw my first Northern Lights up there. Last I was up there, dogsledding seemed to be coming back...at least people said it was. Snowmobiles in winter and 4ATVs in summer dominate the fun motoring crowd. Last time I was up there in polar bear season, some drunk idiot was harassing polar bears in his snowmobile. Of course, the mounties took care of that problem pretty quickly.
Although Churchill has changed from the 1960's (another ex-serviceman wrote me and described how it used to be.) it would still probably be recognizable to you. The train station is still there. The empty military settlement is still around although unused. There is an old landsat station there, now called "twin gulfballs". Also, the old Aerobee rocket range is now the Churchill Northern Studies Centre. The old buildings are still there, looking mysterious and rather sinister. Only the barricks area is actually used by the CNSC people. There is still only one main (and very pitted) road from town to what used to be the rocket range. The military put down the gravel back roads, so you are probably somewhat familiar with the layout. There is a new and very nice Community Centre, a hospital, a fairly recent indoor mall across the street from it (all three on the same street as the Eskimo Museum) and some of the stores go back to those times. There are, of course, new shops catering to tourists and a few hotels are there that may not have been around in 1960. You would find much of it recognizable, but changed.
Why don't you go back in July? (but take a bug suit!) Churchill is tourist-oriented (although the harbor is still up and running in summer). You could take boat tours and do beluga whale watching, go birding, rent a car and do short hikes to enjoy the botany & geology. It is absolutely gorgeous in July! The weather is clement then, too, apx 75F and mostly sunny. You might still find people who were around back then, although the population veers toward young. I think the older folks move to BC or Florida, or whatever.
You should go back to visit! It's easy. Fly to Winnipeg then take via rail canada or calm air to Churchill. I recommend the train. Takes longer, but the dining car turns into a party at night.
To: <alice@chem.ucla.edu>
Subject: Churchill Again
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 09:16:27 -0500
Dear Alice,
I found your e-mail from the Churchill web site. You are causing
me to dust off my long term memory and that's certainly not a
bad thing. So, here goes.
There was a man well known to my family from Middletown, NY. George
served in the US Army in the 40's. He was put on a train and when
it stopped he was in a place called Churchill. His reason to be
was to help build a hospital that would receive wounded from Europe.
This would be an ideal place to move wounded to either coast as
it was half way between. I was given to believe that the war ended
before a single wounded soldier ever made it to Churchill.
When I was there (60-61) the hospital was used for the community
and also as a sorting point for Eskimos and Indians from "up
north". They were run thru the hospital, checked over and
sent home unless they had TB or eye problems. Then they were sent
to Winnipeg. Sometimes we would see them in the terminal
building waiting for a plane with absolute terror in their eyes.
This was truly the great unknown.
You indicated that the Fort Churchill is now closed as a military
facility (if I read it right). Coming from the village to the
base there was a building on the right just passed the entrance
to the Eskimo village. This building was a commissioned "ship"
in the Royal Canadian Navy. It was Her Majesty's ship "Churchill"
and the mission was to monitor radio messages from around the
world especially from Russia and other eastern nations. The big
problem was the northern lights. They would disrupt radio reception
for long periods of time and the government was doing major studies
on the effects of the "lights". In fact, the base Christmas
cards in 1960 was a picture of the northern lights and not a bear.
As you came onto the base and went up a short hill there was housing
on the left and if you stayed just to the right of the housing
you would pass the area where I lived and worked on your way to
the laundry. We had a deal with the bakery in town to stop at
our site with doughnuts after delivering to the laundry.
In the time it took to go from town to the laundry to us
the jelly in the doughnuts would be frozen!
Going out passed the airport, about 12 miles, in 1960-61, there
was a large facility used for the launching of rockets to sample
upper levels of the atmosphere. In 1961 to burned to the ground
at a loss of something like $7million. There was practically no
water to fight the blaze as the Bay was frozen to 4 to 6
feet and the water in the tanker truck frozen enroute to the scene.
I still have a "made for me" parka, trimmed in both
wolf and husky, and a couple of pairs of muk-luks and a pair of
mittens made of Caribou. Over the years I have had the opportunity
to go into classrooms and talk to children about life in the north
and that's a lot of fun.
I hope I haven't emptied my entire head on this page but you have
made it fun and I'll regroup for tomorrow. SAM
From: "Alice L. Ramirez" <alice@chem.ucla.edu>
Subject: Re: Churchill Again
1/8/04
I find these details of life fascinating. I think the same hospital is still around, and serves the Eskimos , the locals (who seem to be either white or Cree) and tourists. Town Centre is right next to it if it's the same one (right on the beach?) I met a woman when I went up in July one year, who had such an allergic reaction to the bug bites that she had to go there for treatment. I suspect the Eskimos are a bit more sophisticated now.
The military is gone from Churchill now, although they haven't torn down any of the old buildings. I am having a hard time placing the "ship". Maybe because there is no Eskimo village there now. I thought there used to be something down around Akludlik Marsh, but it's not there now. I don't know if that is the same village or not. The one down around the marsh was described as an Indian settlement.
I saw Northern Lights for the first time on my last November
trip up there. THey are gorgeous. I was frustrated because it
always occurred when I was with others, in a car, who didn't want
to stop and admire or even let me roll down the window.
I am trying to imagine what it must have been like, to deal with
a frozen jelly doughnut!
Going out passed the airport, about 12 miles, in 1960-61, there
was a large facility used for the launching of rockets to sample
upper levels of the atmosphere. In 1961 to burned to the ground
at a loss of something like $7million. There was practically no
water to fight the blaze as the Bay was frozen to 4 to 6
feet and the water in the tanker truck frozen enroute to the scene.
I am surprised to hear this. There are buildings out there
now, including an old rocket launch tower and some rather odd,
mysterious and somewhat sinister-looking buildings. Maybe they
rebuilt. The facility is now occupied by the Churchill Northern
Studies Centre and they offer lodging to scientists doing Arctic
research as well as learning vacations to tourists.
To: "Alice L. Ramirez" <alice@chem.ucla.edu>
Subject: Churchill
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 08:16:13 -0500
Alice,
If you are comfortable with this idea, let me know.
I have some pictures that I would try to reproduce ( about 12
or so ) and I would send them to you if I had a mailing address.
In our wild and crazy world of today I realize that I'm asking
you to come out from behind the screen of e-mail. Give it some
thought and I'll await your decision. SAM
Thanks for keeping the keys. SAM ___, JR.
From: "Alice L. Ramirez" <alice@chem.ucla.edu>
Subject: Re: Churchill
1/20/04
I'd love to have the pix. I'll take a chance.
From: "Alice L. Ramirez" <alice@chem.ucla.edu>
Subject: Re: Churchill
1/30/04
Dear Sam, THANK YOU! The pictures arrived yesterday. They are
neat. May I put them and your letters up on my website. (the historic
Churchill section)
To: "Alice L. Ramirez" <alice@chem.ucla.edu>
Subject: Re: Churchill
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 13:43:31 -0500
Sure. Take the pictures and any text and have a great time
with them. I look forward to seeing what you will do. SAM